LIFE OB GJ.JI.IBJ.LDI.
touched, the broad quay between the houses and lake was crowded.
We wer·e received by two Douaniers, and marched off, the observed
of all observers, to 1dut euatom-house. The head authority was a
very polite man. but evidently regarded it as the first duty
of man 11;Q hAn-liB passport m r6$le, and demurred considerably to mine.
which hlllli not been tiVtftl in Switzerland; but after examining Fetier's
a& a guide, and learning how we had come suddenly from Switzer
land, •d were returning by the Simplon he gave us the flial. We
were conducted up one of the narrow rough lanes of high houses, called
streets U[l Italy, to the Jwtel, and on our way passed long rows of muskets
(D1811Y <J•f them fimts of primitive fashion,) ranged below the arched
piazzas of the houses fronting the lake. After a very comfortable dinner
I walked down to the wharf, entered mto conversation with one of the
patrol, and learned, as I did from others, that the Austrian steamers had
on that day week. the 28th of May, demanded contribution, which being
refu.ed, they at once commenced cannonading the town. Out of twenty
!ve shots not one hit the town, only cuttmg trees above it on the
from 12 arui 2'!1.-pounders, a shot from one of which hit the
Tierno. ki1liag 11o11 dicer and two men. They expected. another attaclr.
and wen prepared fur it, as I could see. He advised us, as some of the
patrols constantly passing migh.t arreet us, to go to our hotel, which we
did aillet• listening to some patriotic songJJ enthusiastically sung by jo'l'ial
citizen soldiers ma neighbouring wmehouse.
"I was &woke at the first streak of day by the sound of many voices and
of feet in the street, and jumped up with the thought that the Austrian
steamers1 were before the town again. On lookmg out I found the whole
populati,on astir, the tnen all armed, marchmg down the wharf. It was a
most praiseworthy demonstration of patriotism, but very uncomfortable,
for the min poured steadily and the morning mist hung dank and cold m
the narrow lanes. As I watched the respectable Canobians trudging
past I could not help contrasting their experience of war with ours
in' our tight little island.' We pay so mnch money and are done with
it, but who can tell the individus.lsuffering and anxiety, the loss of pro·
perty and waste of time by a cromm.unity who have C'l'en a. chanre of
being withm the seat of warP I soon saw, by the leisurrly way in which
they wa.lkcd, that it was only a daily precaution, and returned to beJ
with a resolution to get beyond gunshot with all dispatch.
"Wc embarked after breakfast for Pallanza, c:o..-pecting to catch
the Simplon diligence, but we were too late. The boatmen said that so